What to look for while roaming the country of ever-steaming trains, ever-singing
Bards and never-muted nationalists, country of wide horizons and even wider
place names:
Wales
Medieval Castles are undoubtedly among the greatest of Welsh attractions.
They have been photographed from all conceivable angles at all lighting conditions,
and you are not likely to come up with a strikingly novel image. Neither this,
nor the fact that the national pride of Wales was built by an English King (Edward
I.) should put you off. The castles are just too omnipresent and too majestic
to be ignored. What's more, the most beautiful ones are conveniently located
along the railway system.
If you have time to see only a few of them, then Conwy Castle must be
on the top of the list. It is easily accessible by train on the Chester - Holyhead
line (actually, the trains stop just next to the castle). Several B&B as
well as a Youth Hostel in the town make it easy to stay overnight and take advantage
of the early morning/late evening light in the harbor or night floodlighting
of the castle and the suspension bridge. The Conwy town with its medieval fortification
and the harbor with “The smallest house in Great Britain“ are also
worth exploring.
After a few more stops westwards from Conwy, the train reaches Bangor, a university
town and a good base to survey the north-west coast. The Penrhyn Castle,
located 1 or 2 miles from Bangor, does not belong to the large family of Edwardian
castles, but its ivy-covered walls exposed to the evening light are very photogenic
anyway. It is a strenuous walk along a busy road from the town; taking a bus
or taxi is a better idea.
Towering over the Harlech village and located next to a train stop, the remarkable
structure of Harlech Castle, a World Heritage site, is, again, unavoidable.
Many campsites and caravan parks are available in the village, and if weather
permits, an early morning walk along the sandy beach nearby provides a myriad
of photo-temptations.
The ruins of Aberystwyth Castle on the central coast of Wales may look
a bit pathetic compared with its majestic cousins of the north, but good evening
light makes all the difference. Aberystwyth is a picturesque university town
easily accessible by train offering many other architectural targets to aim
a lens at: the Cathedral and Wales University are within a stone-throw from
the castle ruins. At nice weather, take the Cliff Railway to the top of Constitution
Hill to enjoy a nice view over the Cardigan Bay or take a look through Camera
Obscura. The Vale of Rheidol Railway starts its 12-mile journey to Devil’s
Bridge at Aberystwyth train station.
For other information, see: http://www.castlewales.com/home.html
Portmeirion
As if in contrast to the cold stones of the castles, the shining walls and glittering
roofs of Mediterranean-like architecture are concentrated in the little village
of Portmeirion. Chantry, gloriette, colonnade, pantheon.... buildings designed
by Sir Clough William-Ellis on a little peninsula evoke an atmosphere closer
to a spa-resort rather than cold Atlantic coast. At nice weather, that is.
Portmeirion is reachable by train; get off at Minffordd from where public signs
will guide you safely to the village (1.5 miles). From the Minffordd train station,
you can get on the famous Ffestiniog Railway train which will take you through
the beautiful scenery of Snowdonia up to the slate quarries of Blaneau Ffestiniog.
For other information, see: http://www.portmeirion-village.com
To perceive Wales through other senses than just your camera, going around by
train and tenting in the mountains of Snowdonia is a good decision.
Take a ride on one of the famous narrow-gauge steam railways, which gives
you a chance to take a slow look at the country, meet interesting people, and
laugh at drenched train-spotters at the railway stations (the last one is not
to be done too loudly).
The Vale of Rheidol steam-train ride is an hour-long journey through
scenic countryside, which makes an excellent half-day trip from Aberystwyth.
It winds up at Devil’s Bridge, where three bridges span a spectacular waterfall
in a deep canyon.
Already mentioned Ffestiniog Railway runs between Porthmadog and Blaneau
Ffestiniog. The fare is included in the “Explore Wales Flexipass”
(see bellow).
For other information, see: http://www.festrail.co.uk
Snowdonia
National Park
Located around the highest mountain of Wales, the Snowdonia NP offers a plethora
of photo-opportunities, including landscape, fauna, flora or even sports (during
the railway races). Reaching the top of Snowdon is not reserved to the physically
determined; since 1896, a narrow-gauge railway has been whisking visitors from
Llanberis, sweat-free, right up to the summit café, pub and post office.
As a consequence, the summit can get very crowded (and it does during the summer
months and Bank holidays).
Walking possibilities are unlimited, weather permitting, and wild camping is
allowed from a certain altitude (around 1000 feet, I believe); if you obey the
rules, however, the wardens do tolerate small tents bellow this point.
Be prepared. Although not exactly impressive in terms of height, Snowdonia are
real mountains with all the wiles following sudden weather changes.
For other information, see: http://www.star-attractions.co.uk
Rainy day alternatives
With
annual rainfall of up to two feet in some areas, water in any form needs to
be counted with when preparing an itinerary to North Wales. Here are some options
that can be done at bad weather:
Visiting Eisteddfodt, an annual assembly of Welsh Bards dating from
the 12. century, gives you a great chance to see the authentic Welsh - dressed
in their alluring national costumes and performing their traditional singing
and dancing.
Eisteddfod festivals take place throughout the country during the summer months.
The most famous one is held in Llongollen - a competition attracting dance groups
and bands from all over the world. Another big one is the Royal National Eisteddfodd
of Wales held in early August in South Wales and North Wales in turns.
For other information, see: http://www.eisteddfod.org.uk/english/index.html
While
waiting for the weather to clear up before setting off to the top of Mt. Snowdon,
you can pay a short visit to The Welsh Slate Museum in Llanberis located
on the site of the old Dinorwic Quarry. Many still-life settings full of rusted
mining machinery and slate plates are to be explored with a camera.
For other information, see: http://www.nmgw.ac.uk/wsm/index.en.shtml
Visit any other from the many Welsh museums and galleries.
For other information, see: http://www.nmgw.ac.uk
To avoid
Unless you have some bizarre reason to take pictures of vacationers
from North England, desperately exposing their chalk-white bodies to every single
shaft of light that makes it through the thick baldachin of clouds, the holiday
resorts skirting the north coast are best avoided.
Facts for the visitors
When to go
All seasons have loads to offer but try to avoid coming during English Bank
Holidays. Spring and fall are the best times if you want to avoid the July and
August crowds.
Getting There & Away
Wales is easily accessible from all around the world. The most sensible way
is to fly to an English international airport (London or Manchester) and continue
from there. Many English and Welsh cities are connected by a number of coach/train
links. It takes about two hours by train to get from London to Cardiff or from
Manchester to Conwy. Long-distance buses are the cheapest way of getting to
Wales from England. Renting a car at the airport and driving west will take
about 3 hours for the respective journeys.
Getting Around
Driving your own car is the most flexible way to explore Wales; only
snow and ice can slow down, or block, your progress through higher elevations.
Wales drives on the left; speed limits are 30 in built-up areas, 70mph on motorways
and 60mph on dual carriageways. Car rental costs from around L130 per week with
unlimited mileage.
For those considering traveling by train, The Freedom of Wales Flexi
Pass offers an economic way to get around. Apart from traveling cheaper, it
also entitles you to some discounts at other attractions. The North Wales version
(North and Mid Wales Flexi Rover) covers even the famous journey from Portmadog
to Ffestiniog on a steam rail.
For other information, see: http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/passes/freedom_wales_flexi_pass.htm
To look up your train connection, click here: http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/planmyjourney/
The long-distance coach services run by National Express duplicate many
intercity rail routes, often at half the price or less. The frequency of services
is often comparable to rail, and in some instances the difference in journey
time is minimal. Coaches are comfortable, some with drinks and sandwiches available
on board. http://www.nationalexpress.co.uk
You can get by using train or public transport services. Timetables
are not exactly dense (actually, rather transparent on Sundays), but distances
are short and careful planning of train-bus-walk combination will take you to
most of Welsh places of interest.
Hitchhike
Having successfully hitchhiked in many European countries, Canada and even Japan,
Wales was the first place where my thumb was left unnoticed. I must have looked
too English for the Welsh locals (or too Welsh for English vacationers).
Accommodation
Wales lives from tourism and you should not have troubles finding a bed in a
variety of dormitories. Hotels are pricey, but a reasonable place in Guest houses
and Bread & Breakfasts will cost around L18 a head. Book in advance in the
peak season. Several Youth Hostels and Campsites are run throughout the country
(www.yha.org.uk). Camping rough
is tolerated in National Parks if you show respect to the nature.
Wales
Medieval Castles are undoubtedly among the greatest of Welsh attractions.
They have been photographed from all conceivable angles at all lighting conditions,
and you are not likely to come up with a strikingly novel image. Neither this,
nor the fact that the national pride of Wales was built by an English King (Edward
I.) should put you off. The castles are just too omnipresent and too majestic
to be ignored. What's more, the most beautiful ones are conveniently located
along the railway system.
